Footed Arrow Jig and Arrow Repair
This process works great for footing arrows and simply saving arrows that have been broken. I have arrows I have repaired this way 4 and 5 times. I’m really not sure there if there is a limit but it sure saves time over making a new arrow, fletching it and nocking it.
For footing arrows you can perform the process while they are still in square stock if you make your own shafts or after they are arrow shafts. I think the squarer stock may be a little faster and easier, unless you make the jig, but not enough to stop you from either process.
If you only plan to do a few arrows now and then, doing them without the jig works fine, but the jig really helps speed things up and make it easier to get them true.
You cut the point on the fletch side of the arrow.
Then cut the groove on the foot or point end (foot end) You can cut the V groove or just cut a slot and clamp it. Either way works and I’ve not seen a difference in the end results.
This next image is sanding the V point. I cut it first on the band saw. It can be done this way, or with the jig shown below.
Here are some wenge footed poplar arrows in progress
Here is some examples of repairs on a finished arrows
A repaired arrow ready to glue. This is an are example with just a slot cut. I use the band saw, but a fine cut hand saw will work just fine.
I just free hand the slot. If that doesn’t work for you, mark the center line first, then cut to the line.
Or if you want to make a Footed Arrow Jig for Footed Arrow Jig and Arrow Repair
This is a very simple jig. It works with the table saw but not really recommended (you must use extreme caution) or much safer is the band saw. It could also be rigged for the belt sander if you don’t have a band saw.
The exact dimensions are not that important as long as the bevels are about 4 1/2 – 5″ long. Longer will work if you wanted to try it.
I don’t have a fence for my band saw, so I just clamp a temporary fence to the table and slide the arrow through . The band holds the arrow in place. The band is just a slice of old inner tube.
Once one side is done, rotate the arrow exactly 180 degrees and cut the other side.
If needed. clean it up on the belt sander.
Note the notches in the end are not really intentional. I made this jig from the scrap bin and it happened to be a broken bow limb.
Add a clamp at the end of the slot to keep the arrow from splitting when you shove the point together.
Make sure everything is glued. I coat the point, slide it together, take it back apart and give it another coat of glue before putting it tougher again.. I use titebond III but any wood glue or epoxy should work. I’ve got arrows I’ve repaired two and three times, but never in the same spot.
The important part is making sure it’s straight. You can straighten the arrow after just like any wood arrow, but if the joint is off to much it’s pretty tough to keep it straight.
Clamp it as with any glue joint and let it dry.
Here is the jig I use to sand the joint.
Again this works for footing and for repairs.
I’m sure this can be modified for almost any kind of belt sander.
After it’s come out of this jig, I chuck it in my drill and spin it to do the final sanding.
A new (or the old) field point along with a couple dips in lacquer and its ready to go back into the quiver