Hunter Forged from an Implement Tine – Cold Blued
Notes: cross peen or rounding hammer would be used
- forge the point first
- keep it straight as you go
- keep refining the profile within each section as you go
- for the entire blade profile (we’ll do the tang after)
- after the profile is formed forge the edge
- forge one section at a time
- Remember to use the right side of the hammer to pull the steel (round side or cross peen side)
- rough profile the length a section at a time
- go back and smooth it after
- Keep the knife bigger than the patter
- Blade is 5 1/2″
- Overall Length is 9 3/4″
- The blade was blued with gun blue (cold blue)
This knife was forged from an implement tine. This should be close to 5150 if the information
on the internet is correct. I found it to be a little harder to forge than the 108x.
I drew out the blade first, shaping it as I went. From a
forging perspective it was much different than the last knife I forged except
this was to be a full tang.
Wetting the anvil and hammer helps get rid of the scale. Just
dip your hammer in your water bucket a few times and throw the water on the
anvil and continue as normal.
After forging, I started with a 36-grit ceramic belt and
worked my way up to 220. I think I’m starting to hit the other end of the
learning curve. Grinding is getting easier. I still did some hand sanding, I
only sanded to 180 grit then hit it with a course finishing belt.
There are times when I get closer and into finish sanding, I have the
belt going as slow as it will go. It allows better control and mistakes become
much smaller and easier to overcome. At this stage taking your time and
constant focus is the best advice I can give.
This time I didn’t forget to normalize. I almost forgot my makers mark, but added it in between the first and second normalizing cycle.